SACHA LODGE

Boarding our motorised canoe on the Napo River at Coca (which is a 2 hour trip to Sacha Lodge)

The back of some other tall, grey-haired gent, not John, on the walk to the Lake.

Our second canoe ride (no motor this time), to the lake on which our lodge nestles.

Sacha Lodge, from across the lake

Nic on her way to the cabin and glimpsing black mantle tamarins and a pygmy marmoset

Friday 3 – Sunday 5 December

Pygmy marmoset, the smallest monkey on earth (would fit into the palm of a hand)

We left our excess baggage at Casa Aliso and embarked on our journey to Sacha Lodge on Lake Pilchicocha (nearest town Coca). The flight was only half an hour with Tame airlines, most pleasant (and much more room than our 6 hour flight to Quito from Santiago!). Hilarious to hear Lionel Richie playing over the tannoy while we were taxiing before take off. What is it with Ecuador and their adoration of ‘classic hits?!’

Arrived safely in Coca where we were bused all of 5 minutes to their downtown office (right on the Napo River). Had sandwiches for lunch and piled into large covered motorised canoes and hooned down the river for about 2 hours. It was overcast by then, and it was quite nice, fanging along with the wind blowing in the hair (which, for Nic, did not recover for the 3 days in the Amazonian jungle – just like Monica in that episode of Friends when she went all frizzy). Once we reached the landing point for the lodge, we walked for another 20 minutes before getting into smaller, regular canoes on the lake for a 15 minutes ride to our final destination. This whole approach to Sacha Lodge by water was just like we were in a movie – gliding across black, still water, with everything clearly reflected in its surface – absolutely magical.

Our room

We were certainly lucky with our accommodation. We had the best cabins – a very large room built on stilts and accessed by walkways, with a king size bed, ensuite and all walls were of wood and flyscreens (with half length curtains to draw for the evening, so that fresh air still circulated throughout the night, with the help of the overhead fan). We had a ‘back deck’ that was surrounded by the rainforest that was completely private, and housed 2 comfortable chairs and a hammock. It was just like living in a tree house, only with flushing loos and a hot shower and protection from the mozzies! And being an eco-lodge, we once again had to deal with not being allowed to put the loo paper down the loo, but in a bin next to it (in fact, this is quite common in Ecuador, generally).

The dining room and bar of Sacha Lodge

Leaf grasshopper on steps in bar

The lodge issued us with wellington boots for the duration of the stay, and they were very handy with all the traipsing through mud and getting in and out of canoes. So with the ‘wellies’ combined with the jungle attire, and Nic’s abandoning of all efforts to tame her mop of curls, we were quite a sight – especially since John was issued with the only pair of bright yellow boots at the lodge – so much for discretely sneaking up on wildlife!

View from bar towards canoe dock and lake

We were also blessed with our Naturalist Guide, Sebastian, and our Native Guide, Wilma, who were both lovely, gentle men, who were highly intelligent and knowledgeable and VERY patient!

We have had mixed luck with our wildlife sightings here. On the way to our room on the first afternoon, we also got lucky with our animal watching – we saw 2 black mantle tamarinds, and a pigmy marmoset (the smallest monkey in the world), all only a couple of metres from us. As a group, however, we have seen a few frogs, some grasshoppers, millipedes, a snail the size of a large grapefruit, many birds and lizards, while other groups have seen tarantulas, anacondas and monkeys frolicking…But they must have been in groups with softly spoken members – our group…not so much!!

On our way to 'The Tower'

One of many birds whose name we can't remember!

The bottom of the viewing tower...

...and the view from the top - straight down!

Bromeliad from tree top

Our naturalist guide, Sebastian

There were two particularly lovely walks (of many) our trusty guides led us on – a canopy walk (about 50m above the ground), which comprised of 3 towers with 2 suspension bridges between them. The other involved a canoe ride across the lake and through some beautiful channels to the Kapok Tree Tower (also about 50m above the ground) from where we could observe all kinds of different birds, including woodpeckers, toucans, parrots, many different types of taningers, crested ‘this’ and speckled ‘that’, bewildering in the vast array of species and colours and wondrous beauty. Even got to see a couple of howler monkeys sulking in the rain.

Our indigenous guide, Wilma

One morning we headed out early (the wake-up knock at the door always came at 5:30am!) down river to see the parrot clay-lick. This is where thousands of parrots hover in trees (the same colour they are, which makes them difficult to see!), until some brave leader swoops down to the clay-lick and the minions follow. Problem was, they didn’t. We tried several different clay-lick locations, and got to see first hand how patient true birdwatchers are – but we ain’t! We had about 4 hours in total of waiting with not much action. Got some reading done, though. Oh, and we did see a lizard…and come cute indigenous women doing a wedding dance. The highlight of the morning really was watching a sharman smoke out the nasty spirits from the young woman from Chicago. He looked about 200 years old, but we later found out he was 42!! Unbelievable. Talk about hard life!

Spare time was spent on the back deck of our little tree house, and we were lucky enough to see 2 squirrel monkeys in a tree, just metres from us. Adorable!

John atop the tree tower, in his subtle yellow boots!

Conger ants

Looks like a designer garden, rather than the Amazonian rainforest!

A butterfly from the butterfly hut

Closer!

Our final night at Sacha Lodge was delightful. It began with a night canoe ride on the lake where we hit the jackpot with our sighting (TWICE!) of a 3 metre long black caiman. Sodding brilliant! The closest we got to him was a couple of metres. We followed him through the water for a while and then he did a submarine number on us, before we discovered him again close to shore. Amazing. With the torch shining on him, he looked like he glowed in the dark. From there we ventured into one of the channels off the lake where we saw some bats who swooped at the insects attracted to the torch the guide was wearing on his head. Just like drunk fighter pilots! On the way back through the channel, Sebastian turned his torch off and him and Wilma navigated the turns of this waterway completely in the dark. It was so magical with the only light being from the fairly lights of the fireflies in the trees and the stars, with Jupiter shining like a beacon among them.

Nic and others on canopy walk

Stunning orchid

Cute lizard

The night ended in a huge BBQ (with plenty of vege options!) – in fact all of the food was fantastic…and neither of us got sick! Our group was the last to leave the dining area, as we chatted and joked and bought drinks for our guides. In bed, we once again drifted to sleep to the accompanying sounds of the rain, birds, cicadas, frogs, and howler monkeys!

For more information on Sacha Lodge, go to: Sacha Lodge

Distant volcano

EXPLORING QUITO

Interior Monastery San Francisco, Quito

Detail interior San Franciso Monastery, Quito

Baby, anyone?

Interior San Fransisco Monastery, Quito

Adorable little ones on a school excursion

Thursday 2 December

Now, THAT'S what I call a transvestite! Magnificent!!

We tentatively ventured forth this day with the aid of imodium (bless it!). We had a very late start and began our self-guided tour of the Old Town (armed with a Lonely Planet) at about 11:30am. We saw many beautiful buildings (many of them next to remarkably ugly ones!), and enjoyed the friendliness of the people and the charm of the atmosphere of the city in general. Walked through the red-light district, which was only obvious due to the trashy prossie on a corner and the large-breasted trannie crossing the road with us. We are positive she was a baritone. 

First floor Quito Basilica

Interior Quito Basilica

The basilica was an interesting piece of architecture – gothic cement besser block  circa 1883. Noice. But the gargoyles were particularly noteworthy – iguanas and birds of the Galapagos rather than demons. Cool. We climbed the clock tower in the basilica, with many sharp intakes of breath on the way up due to each view that got more and more stunning as we ascended. At the summit (which was reached via a narrow winding metal staircase and a ladder), all we could do was sigh at the sheer beauty and vastness of the panorama before us. What a treat! And to think we nearly didn’t bother because we were fearful of the altitude affecting our ability to climb an obscene amount of stairs!

First floor Quito Basilica

The guidebook had the self-guided tour winding through the Old Town and through the parks into the New Town (about 3-4kms). We decided to press on, even though it was past lunch time, as neither of us felt much like eating just yet. So we kept walking and set our sights on a Chinese restaurant that received good reviews and was open 11am-11pm for our preferred lunch/dinner at about 4pm. We had some unimaginative, but appreciated rice and vegetables at ‘Chifa Mayflower,’ which was just what the doctor ordered. Once sated, we looked at our map and realised that we were only about another kilometre or so from our B&B, so kept going.

View from clocktower, Basilica

Gargoyle...bird...thing!

Interior clock tower, Basilica

The lovely Plaza Grande, Quito

3 old dudes on a bench, Plaza Grande

Our journey home was interrupted by a slight detour into the ‘Homero Ortega’ shop, which sells Panama hats (which, for those who are unaware, are actually made in Cuenca, Ecuador). Nic found a lovely man’s classic to fit, and John ordered one (to be picked up on our return from Galapagos). Good shopping.

Teatro Sucre, Old Town

We arrived at Casa Aliso around 6pm, but weren’t “allowed” to go to our room as a band was playing in the restaurant next door, and Patricio dragged us in there, handed us drink vouchers and instructed us to have fun. We stayed till about 7:30pm, writing in our journals, enjoying our complimentary red wine and the 4 piece contemporary band – the lead singer had an excellent voice. No idea what their name was.

Cool band at Clancy's restaurant

Clancy's Restaurant, adjoining Casa Aliso

Came back to the room with the intentions of packing and then relaxing and reading for the rest of the evening. This ‘rest of the evening’ plan was thwarted due to the length of time it took to pack for Sacha Lodge – we only took one suitcase to the lodge, and it took some faffing about to get ourselves organised!

Hotted up taxi, complete with spoiler - who da man?

And the windscreen of same...Jesus taxi

ARRIVAL IN QUITO

The lovely and charming Ollie and Lucy at Casa Moro in Santiago

Our driver Heraro, and a view of Quito from El Panecillo

Staircase of Casa Aliso, Quito

Tuesday 30 November

Even with an afternoon flight, there seemed to be much to do before leaving Santiago. We got packed and went for a relatively short wander through the area around the Presidential Palace, before heading back to Casa Moro from where Walter and Marcelo drove us to the airport. After check in (no upgrade this time!), we ate some basic, blah salad bar fare at one of the usual unexciting airport cafés/restaurants, which was expensive for what we had (must be an international airport rule), but was still reasonably priced compared to home.

The flight to Quito was quite tedious. We were crammed in 3 each side of the aisle, which meant, as we had the window and centre seats, we had to clamber over the guy nearest the aisle to go to the toilet. Six hours is a long time when your butt goes to sleep and you need to keep your legs crossed for a good fraction of that time. Will definitely ask for aisle next time – would rather vacate my seat for someone else than have to ask them to move.

Trolley bus stop in Quito

After researching on the net at home, we had made the decision to use our altitude sickness medication as a prophylactic (one of the suggested uses). Not sure it was such a good idea. We both had intermittent tingling hands and feet and both felt a little lacking in energy, and we have no idea if it was the medication or the altitude. When we return to Quito, we will take our chances and wait and see if we actually need the stuff.

One of the many stunning birds of Ecuador

By the time we got to the stunning Casa Aliso (see Casa Aliso) in the La Floresta area of Quito, it was 9:45pm, and all we really wanted to do was sleep. So we sort of unpacked, and hit the sack.

Wednesday 1 December

John and Nic at the Equator

We had a good night’s sleep in our lovely room and a very nice ‘brekky’ of fruit, scrambled eggs with tomatoes, onions and capsicums, and various juices (many other things on offer, but didn’t appeal that morning). The manager had lined up a driver for us, Heraro (positive this is NOT how it’s spelt, but it’s how it sounds), from Mexico. Our first stop was the Museo de Sitio Intinan which, as per military GPS, is the location of the true 00°00”00’ of Latitude (unlike the much larger, less indigenous-looking, more Americanised museum next door…but more of that anon). We partook in a number of ‘scientific experiments’ to prove that we were, in fact, on the very line of the equator (some more ‘scientific’ than others!): a strength test (which showed we were stronger off the zero degrees line); a drunk driving test (where we found it very difficult to walk exactly on the line); balancing an egg on the head of a nail (which we did skilfully, and not all of our group could manage); and most impressive, and convincing, was the ‘sink hole’ test – they had the sink positioned with the hole directly on the zero degrees line, and the water and leaves went straight down. When the sink was moved 2 metres south of the equator, the water and leaves went down anti-clockwise, and when they moved the sink 2 metres north of the equator, they went clockwise. That one was cool, and even if it was all smoke and mirrors, it was very impressive.

Success with the egg balancing!

They also had a number of exhibits showing various amphibians, arachnids and others preserved in formaldehyde. The tarantulas were interesting, and the boa constrictors looked uncomfortable, all squashed into their tank-tombs, but the fish (whose name escapes me) that can, if you pee in the water, follow your urine and swim up into your urethra and hook on with barbs was still a little scary. Only way to remove one of those little beasts once ensconced, is surgery.

Look at those eyes! Beautiful llama!

From there we went to the much larger and touristy Museo Ethnografico. It had a large monolith at the centre making the same claims as the previous museum about being the true zero degrees latitude, but none of the little activities proving it. It was a place that families gravitated to on weekends; it was really the size of a small village, with a central square with musicians playing, artisan shops, and a large American style avenue/boulevard lined with statues and trees.

The virgin atop El Panecillo

Having exhausted our morning time, we decided lunch was in order. Our guide asked whether we liked ceviche, we asked what it was, his answer was ‘fish,’ so we said, ‘sure’. He wanted to take us to a restaurant where they served the ‘best ceviche,’ so off we go to El Panecillo – a large hill, technically out of Quito (although only just), with an imposing statue of the Virgin, that you can ascend for fantastic views over Quito. The climbing and photographing we did after lunch, but for our actual meal we visited ‘Pim’s’, the only restaurant in the vicinity. We ordered 2 ceviche entrées to share plus a salad. Our guide/guest ordered fillet mignon. Now, the problem with the ceviche, is that it is fish or shellfish that has been MARINATED. Yes, that means the fish would have been raw and soaked overnight in the marinade (based on WATER) to ‘cook’ it, AND it’s served COLD. So, basically, we gave ourselves a handy little dose of…um…’upset tummy.’ Luckily, it was not accompanied by cramps, nausea or vomiting, so we got off rather lightly! Moral of the story, steer clear of ceviche in countries where you can’t drink the water!

Nic atop the Virgin at El Panecillo bemoaning the omission of NSW on the map of Australia

Old woman and burden

After our lunch adventures, we requested to be taken back to Casa Aliso. Heraro chose to do this through the Old Town, even though we said we would rather do that tomorrow and go straight back to the B&B instead. Problem was, it was peak hour, which made our journey back over an hour (and it should’ve been 15 minutes). Nic was more than a tad peeved, because it was her mum’s birthday and she wanted to get back in time to skype her before she went to work, but we just had to sit in the car, in traffic, while he insisted on showing us the sites!

The highlight of the day was a visit to a music club called ‘El Pobre Diablo.’ We ordered some traditional fare of broad beans, roasted corn and peppers, with a Chilean cabernet sauvignon while we listened contentedly. A margarita for Nic and a tequila gold for John were a lovely way to finish the evening.

Ice-cream, anyone?

Santiago II

Chilean architecture....AND bike!

Our special dinner from the previous night

He so wanted his photo taken!

Monday 29 November

We slept well and leisurely rose to head out of our haven in Casa Moro mid morning. We took the #1 metro line all the way to the end (about 20 minutes) to the suburb of Las Condes, the location of the Los Dominicos markets. What a delightful little tourist draw card. All these market/artisan/craft stalls built in the old traditions, including creek winding through the place with cute little bridges over the trickle. They sold everything from jewellery, tapestries and carvings to postcards, junkfood and animals! The macaw had Nic at ‘hello arrrkkkk.’ Saw too many things we wanted to buy – will decide on our final visit before we head home in January (may have to pass on the macaw, though – may have to be placated with lapis lazuli jewellery instead!).

'Aarrrk!'

We then leapt on the immaculate metro system again to get to El Huerto for another lunch (and, yes, the word ‘immaculate’ was used in regard to the metro – pristine, efficient, and the stations sported cool artworks or mosaics at each stop). While we only sampled line one, in peak hour, a train would arrive within seconds of one pulling out of the station – unheard of in Sydney (but really, of all the public transport systems we have used in the world, and that’s quite a few now, Sydney’s is by far the worst!). However, as wonderful as this public transport is, we decided to walk the whole way back to our digs, which took a couple of hours, what with regularly stopping and sitting on park benches to enjoy the green. Walking is always a nice way to spend time when in a foreign city.

The artworks in the subway

We arrived home late afternoon. After our siesta (fast becoming a regular component of the day!), we headed down to the common lounge area of the B&B to chat with the hosts and have some white wine while working on the old blog and checking emails. By the end of the long chat, we weren’t in the mood to venture to our planned restaurant for dinner, so instead strolled to the much closer supermarket. Don’t know if we have already mentioned the obvious presence of uniformed officers – security guards, police, army, tourist police, many with bullet-proof vests. Even the supermarket had heavy-duty security on the door. Made us honest folk feel rather safe.

Santiago's Cathedral

Our humble dinner fare consisted of an avocado, cucumber and cheese, and we added that to what was left of our wine. The evening was perfect for eating on the atmospheric ground floor terrace with the singing canary couple, the water fountain and wind chimes. Our dinner was made all the more delightful due to new guests to the B&B, Bora and Denis from Turkey, who were having the same wonderful feast prepared for them that we had enjoyed the night before. We had such a fantastic time chatting with them that all of a sudden it was 1:30 in the morning, and we had to get to bed, as we had a flight the next day to Quito and needed to pack.

School, Santiago style